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Großglockner + South Tyrol Autumn 2011 - Ridereport

Autumn is - in my opinion - the most beautiful season in the Alps!
The weather is often characterised by stable high pressure, the landscape shows itself in bright colours and the roads are often lonely and deserted!
That's why we were already playing with the idea in summer to go to South Tyrol for 5 days at the end of September / beginning of October. The house Heinrich in Montan should be our destination.
From mid-September on, the weather was really nice and we asked Mrs. Amplatz (Haus Heinrich) if one or two rooms (Werner from Sonthofen wanted to go with us) were free in the last week of September, unfortunately not, but in the 1st week of October!
So it was supposed to go to South Tyrol from 3 - 8.10.!
But before that we wanted to visit the Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße!
Petra and I had been given a voucher for an overnight stay with breakfast in the Hotel Saliter-Hof in Saalfelden-Uttenhofen and so this was our destination for the 02.10.!

Sunday, 2nd October 2011

So together with Werner we first drove from Sonthofen via Rettenberg and Wertach to Nesselwang, because the Jochpass road was closed due to the Jochpass Memorial.
We continued - with relatively heavy traffic - via Pfronten and Reutte to Ehrwald and Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Via Wallgau we reached the toll road to Vorderriß. Here we still met Ingrid ("Idsi"), who was on her way to the big maple grove.
After a short small talk we continued our way and reached the Sylvensteinstausee - always beautiful to look at!

Along the Achensee the path led us further to the Zillertal. There was also a lot of traffic here - especially many tractors that took part in the "Bauernherbst" reduced the speed considerably.
Nevertheless we reached the Zillertal relatively quickly.
Although we still had enough time, we skipped the Zillertaler-Höhenstraße, because on the one hand there was a lot of traffic and on the other hand the mountains were rather hazy and the view down into the valley would certainly not have been worthwhile.
So we steered straight towards Gerlospass. The old Gerlospass road is just being renewed, so we drove the new Gerlospass road (Filzsteinalpe/Gerlosplatte - 1628 m), which is subject to toll. Here you have a wonderful view down into the Pinzgau and to the Krimmler Waterfalls.

 

Down into the valley we quickly reached Mittersil and Zell am See as well as our destination Saalfelden.
The Hotel Saliterhof is beautifully situated and the rooms have a 4-star ambience!

Monday, 3rd October 2011

In the morning the fog in the valley welcomed us. But already at Bruck an der Großglocknerstraße it disintegrated and the sun laughed from the deep blue sky.
It was astonishing that the higher we came, the warmer it got!
At the top of the Edelweiss peak at a height of 2571 m, the temperatures were much more pleasant than down in the valley! Additionally a fantastic panorama view - what more could you ask for!

 

 

After this detour we continued via the Fuscher Törl (2428 m) and the Hochtor (2505 m) to the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe (2369 m). Here, as on the rest of the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, there was very little going on that day and we could really enjoy the fantastic landscape with a view of the Grossglockner!

Then we left this wonderful spot and drove via Heiligenblut down into the valley to Winklern and over the Iselsberg to Lienz. From there we headed northeast and soon reached the Defereggen Valley. At the beginning of the valley it was 12:30 pm and so we could ride the 35 km up to the Staller-Sattel (2059 m) without much hurry. The ride down into the Antholzer Valley is only allowed at full hours for 15 minutes. We arrived there at 13:05 o'clock and so we could continue without delay.
Once we arrived at the bottom we had our lunch break directly at the Antholzer-See.

Afterwards the further way led us down into the Pustertal and from there directly up to the Furkelpass (1759 m) and then via Welschelen and Antermoia up to the Würzjoch (2009 m). Here we made the next stop at the Edelweißhütte before we went down into the Villnößtal. From there it was not far to Bozen - where we were met by heavy traffic - and finally to Montan.
Here we also met Kurt ("medicus47") who had come directly from Sonthofen that day to enjoy the next days with us.
Dinner at Gasthof Rose ended this wonderful day!

Tuesday, 4th October 2011

Today we should go to the Dolomites.
A total of nine passes were on the programme.
In wonderful autumn weather, the first step was a steep ascent from Montan to Truden - always a nice side trip! - and via Kaltenbrunn to Passo San Lugano (1097 m). Then over the main route to Predazzo and then past Lago di Forte Buso up to Passo di Rolle (1984 m). The route was - like the others of this day - lonely and deserted. Only a few cars and motorcycles were on the way - no comparison to the traffic volume in summer!

After a stop at the top of the pass we went down into the valley to the turnoff to Passo di Cereda (1369 m) and continued over the Forcella Aurine (1299 m) to Agordo, where we had a cappucino break.

Then we went up to the Passo Duran (1601 m) - from this side it is much nicer to ride than the other way around!

Down into the valley we turned right to reach the next pass, the Passo Cibiana (1536 m).

Then we went north to Cortina d'Ampezzo and then immediately up to the Passo di Giau (2233 m) - again almost free of traffic. There were hardly any visitors at the top of the pass either.
The view from up here was simply fantastic!

 

Then it went down again very curvy into the valley and already the next 2000 m peak was on the agenda: the Passo di Fedaia (2057 m).

Here we drove over the dam to the other side and took a break. From here it was not too far to Montan. The further way led us to Canazei and Pozza di Fassa. Then over the Karer Pass (1745 m) - past the beautiful Karer Lake - to Birchabruck (Ponte Nova) and via Deutschnofen back to Montan.
All in all a wonderful tour!

Wednesday, the 5th of October 2011 - "Day of rest".

After three days "on the road" we wanted to take it easy today.
Merano was on the program - this time without a motorcycle!
Kurt had come to Montan by car and trailer and so we drove with him to Meran. Always a nice little town! The narrow streets are always attractive.

After a longer stroll we finally drove to Kaltern to have a good ice cream at the market place there.

Then we went back to Montan and a short walk ended this also very nice day in South Tyrol.

Thursday, 6th October 2011

Actually another tour - towards Lake Caldonazzo and Monte Bondone - was supposed to be scheduled today, but the weather did not look promising!
The blue sky of the previous days had disappeared and gave way to a grey in grey.
As "snow all the way down to the valleys" had been announced for the evening, we decided to end our holiday in South Tyrol early and drive back to Sonthofen.
Petra and Kurt drove in the car, while Werner and I used the motorcycles to drive home.
We drove over the main road to Bozen and from there up to the Sarentino Valley and the Penserjoch.

The further we went north, the better the weather became. The clouds made way more and more for the blue sky and at the Brenner it was finally cloudless.
Here we met Kurt and Petra again at the gas station!
While they continued to drive over the Brenner motorway towards Allgäu, we first took the old Brenner road to Matrei and then turned right to drive the - I think - more beautiful route over Ellbögen to Innsbruck.
In St. Peter we went to the local Gasthof St. Peter - highly recommended! - Lunch break.
Then we went straight on to Innsbruck and from there via Telfs to Nassereith and the Fernpass (1200 m). But then we didn't drive directly via Reutte to Sonthofen, but "allowed" ourselves the beautiful detour through the Berwanger-/Namlostal - always a pleasure!
Afterwards it was only a short way via Stanzach, Weißenbach, the Gaichtpass (1093 m), the Tannheimer Tal and the Oberjochpass (1178 m) back to Sonthofen.

In retrospect, the return on Thursday was just right!
Because in the night to Friday it cooled down considerably and started to rain.
On Friday morning the surrounding mountains were covered with snow down to about 1200 m, and on Saturday it didn't get any better.

Conclusion

It was five wonderful days, with the most beautiful weather and fantastic scenery.
Altogether we have covered about 1250 km.

Ridereport for download

EGrossglockner2011.pdf


Unterkunftsempfehlung:
Italien: Hotel Cristallo (Levico Terme)